Less Is More: Rhamos

©  Damien Guichard

Today on Less Is More, we’re playing with one of my favourite ingredients: rhubarb.

Every year, I make the same shrub, some variation of the same drink—and I never get bored. I am, unapologetically, a one-trick pony.

After years of the old “one step forward, two steps back” like bumping around a dark hotel room searching for the light switch, I finally found it. It took a lot of stumbling, but I figured out what I like, and I’m sticking with it.

Essentially, rhubarb curd is like a fresh rhubarb pudding. You combine sugar, rhubarb juice, eggs, and butter, then gently heat the mixture until everything binds - without actually cooking it. It’s not difficult, but it does require attention. Keep the heat low and whisk constantly, or you’ll end up with a rhubarb omelette.

You don’t discover what truly moves you without sifting through plenty that doesn’t. I used to feel bad about that, embarrassed, even. Like I wasn’t experimenting enough. Especially now, when we’re constantly exposed to all the incredible things our peers are creating.

We get bored of what we can do and embarrassed by what we haven’t tried yet.

So this time, instead of going down the usual shrub route, I decided to try something a little different: a rhubarb curd.

Strain through a cheesecloth and set the liquid aside. 

In a separate pan, heat the butter and sugar until fully combined. 

Whisk together the rhubarb juice and eggs thoroughly, then combine with the butter-sugar mixture. 

Cook over very low heat, whisking constantly, until the mixture thickens. Strain again to remove any cooked egg bits, then refrigerate until cooled and set. 

Whether I’m a one-trick pony or an old dog learning new tricks, one thing is certain: in this industry, where guidance can be scarce, we rely on what’s essentially trial and error. We expose ourselves to a wide range of ideas, caring more about some than others, until something finally clicks. Kinda like when you’re a kid trying a new hobby every year, until something sticks. 

The point is: there’s nothing wrong with perfecting something you’re good at. It’s simply the result of a lot of experimentation: sampling.

As for this little drink— 
Is it delicious? Absolutely. Certified banger. 
Is it a Ramos? Not quite. The foam isn’t dense enough to deliver that signature texture. 

Before anyone comes at me for using clarified lime in a Ramos: the yuzu amazake is quite delicate, and I didn’t want to overpower it with fresh citrus. In this case, I was more interested in balance of flavour than visual clarity. 

Also I had it in the fridge. 

Cheers!