Liquid Japan - Drinking Culture in the Land of the Rising Sun

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Japan has numerous delicacies to offer for the bar scene – something that was demonstrated by Japanese exhibitors at the recent BCB 2021. But what is it that makes the country and its drinking culture so unique?

Fascinating contrasts

‘Kamapai’ means cheers! Japanese traditions are notable for their precise craftsmanship, explosive aesthetics and strict discipline. Japan not only maintains an awareness of its classic values and origins, but it has always been open to innovations. There are few countries whose inherent contrasts are as fascinating as Japan’s. On the streets of Tokyo, one might spot a sumo wrestler down a side street, only to enter the next shop and be served by a robot. In Kyoto, brand new saloons can be found parked in front of nondescript private restaurants featuring high-tech toilets, even as white-faced geisha (known in Japan as geiko) and meiko stroll along the banks of the river.

Japan offers countless delicacies

Tradition and innovation are also evident in the world of Japanese drinks. We really should drink more Japanese specialities – a resolution that was also promoted by Bar Convent Berlin this past autumn. The Japan pavilion in Hall 20 aimed to get people to try this liquid diversity from the Far East for themselves. Unfortunately, however, a number of the shipments containing these delicacies were held up in transit, and the range of drinks on offer ended up being smaller than planned – to the disappointment of many. Luckily, however, a number of importers – including Ginza Berlin’s exhibitors (ginza-berlin.com) – were able to step into the breach with their expertise and wide range of products extending from sake and gin to awamori and whisky.

The philosophy of Hidetsugu Ueno

The modern bar scene has actually been a keen observer of Japanese products and trends for quite some time now. Hidetsugu Ueno, for example, operator of Tokyo’s ‘High Five’ bar, has long been a welcome guest in western bar circles. He attributes his popularity in the west to the fact that he enjoys speaking English more than many of his colleagues back home do, and is happy to explain his philosophy when he gives presentations: “A bar patron should not see the effort or trouble a bartender has gone to in creating the drink in their glass.” It is another of his modest pronouncements, yet anyone who watches him in his bar and sees the ease – not to mention speed – with which he carves a block of ice will not doubt recognise the true amount of effort required for his bartending.

The Japanese hard shake

Hidetsugu Ueno never tires referring to one of his idols: Kazuo Uyeda. He was the person who made the ‘Japanese hard shake’ technique what it is today. With this method, a very cold drink is shaken with extreme vigour, something that infuses the drink with air throughout, the idea being that this serves to further expand the flavour and texture of the drink. The shaker is held horizontally and moved forward and back at varying speeds, much like a whip. While doing this, the bartender continually rotates the shaker to ensure that the ice is repeatedly banged against the metal, releasing tiny ice slivers. This creates a delicate layer of ice crystals on the drink that stimulates its mouthfeel. People commonly try to avoid this effect in Europe, which is why a double strain and fine strain are frequently performed here to keep all such fragments out of the customer’s glass.

Stylish use of bartender’s tools

Elegant bar tools and a refined presentation are also commonly seen in Japanese bars. A magnificent example of this is the ‘Gen Yamamoto Bar’ that is located not too far away from the Tokyo Tower. This bar curates a refined menu sequence that is also notable for its unforgettable presentation.

One cannot help but notice that people in Japan use a three-piece shaker far more often than people do in Germany.

The Japanese beer and wine scene is growing

Whenever people talk about brewing in Japan, everyone immediately thinks of sake, yet Japan’s beer scene has experienced rapid development in recent years as its craft brewers create high-quality ales and delicate Wit (‘white’ or wheat beer) as alternatives to lighter lagers. Visitors at BCB had the opportunity to see for themselves just how good the results have been with products from ‘Far Yeast Brewing’, ‘Kagua’ and ‘Ise Kadoya’.

Even vineyards are experiencing a boom, especially in the region around Osaka, with wine production reaching 22 million bottles annually by 2019.

There is growing enthusiasm for Shōchū in the bar industry

Growing numbers of bartenders in Europe are discovering the fascination of Shōchū. This distillate is produced from fermented grains or potatoes to which koji mould spores have been added. Thanks to countless regional differences, there is immense variety when it comes to raw materials, alcohol content and flavours. Awamori from Okinawa, which is produced from rice and a special koji culture, is particularly renowned.

The fascination of tea

In spite of its multifaceted flavour and aroma, the potential of tea as a bar ingredient continues to be underestimated in our neck of the woods. Be it bitter or flowery, delicate or earthy, tea has a great deal to offer, something that Japan expert Charles Schumann knows quite well. No one should pass up the chance to hear what he has to say when he shares his experiences of Japan and its bars. Last year Schumann decided to take his fascination with tea to Germany, establishing ‘Schumann’s House’, a speciality tea brand utilising certified organic tea leaves from Kagoshima and from the Island of Yakushima in southern Japan. 

It is truly something to savour when enjoyed in its pure form – and could well supply the inspiration for many a new cocktail idea.

A blessing and a curse – whisky

A speculative investment opportunity and a high-priced rarity. Whisky from Japan is in great demand, and it is increasingly hard to come by. The whiskies that are currently on offer include many mild blends and young malts, with matured single malts growing ever rarer. Who is to blame for this unfortunate situation? Two Murrays. One of these is Bill Murray, who played the role of ageing US-American film star Bob Harris in the 2003 film ‘Lost in Translation’. In this film he promoted a real brand with the slogan: ‘For relaxing times – make it Suntory time!’

The other Murray responsible for this situation is Jim Murray, an influential whisky author who has been the subject of a great deal of controversy in recent years. In the 2015 edition of his renowned Whisky Bible, Jim Murray selected the Yamazaki Single Malt Sherry Cask 2013 as the world’s best whisky. Things really took off after that.

The 100-percent rule

Since April 2021 there have been new rules in place for Japanese whisky: ever since this date, a whisky must be produced and bottled in its entirety in Japan. Before then, it had been possible to add imported distillates to Japanese whiskies. While this has increased transparency, it has also reduced the volume available on the market.

Heavenly sake

Sake remains the wellspring of Japanese drinking culture. Thanks to a growing number of Japanese restaurants and dedicated proponents of sake in Berlin in particular, the German public is becoming increasingly acquainted with the sheer variety of these brewed specialities, as well as getting to know the types and quality categories a bit better.

A poetic tradition

It is a delicacy with a 1,000-year tradition behind it, and it even has its own goddess in Matsuo-sama. More and more of Japan’s approx. 1,500 sake brewers are taking up new flavours and designs.

After enjoying a third sake martini one gets an urge to recite that shortest of all forms of poetry, a three-line haiku: In the words of the poet Matsuo Bashō (1644-1694):

Come let us go now

watch snow fall and drink sake

tumbling like snowflakes