“Bartenders play the same role for the public that lobbyists play for politicians”

Alex, where are you currently working, and what are you working on?

Although I do still occasionally work behind the bar, I gave up my job as Beverage Director in spring so that I could focus all of my efforts on the G.L.A.S.S. organisation. We converted it into a non-profit organisation in June 2021, and right now we are looking to delve deeper into queer personalities in bar and cocktail history and tell their stories. At the same time, we would also like to raise awareness for queer people in the bar industry in particular and create resources for them. It is far easier in other parts of the hospitality trade – like the hotel industry and the world of fine dining – for queer people to be successful and find themselves represented. When it comes to bars, there is a huge gap.

Why is that?
One reason is certainly that there has almost never been anything written about queer people in bar history, even though they have been a part of it right from the start. We see the same thing with women. That’s just the way that our industry has been. Another reason is that many bars simply appear to be ‘straight’. Why, for example, is Houston’s ‘Anvil Bar’ (editor’s note: Negranza worked here for quite some time), which is located in a gay district, on a street that forms part of the route taken by the Pride Celebration Parade every year, seen as a straight bar? Bars do not have any inherent sexual orientation. After all, it’s not like they’re having sexual relationships with other bars (laughs). But even so, and this is something that does not exist in any other industry, they have a sexual identity: there are straight bars, and there are gay bars, or rather queer bars. But there are no gay copy shops or gay pharmacies. I think that we should do more to make the industry inclusive for queer identities.

Just how important is this aspect to practising your profession?
Even today, I still have customers that call me a ‘faggot’ (a slur for homosexual men). No one should have to be addressed by such a derogatory term just because heterosexual customers have the feeling that it is ‘their space’ and that they should be free to dominate any homosexual individuals found there. We didn’t throw that person out, by the way – in fact, I had to change places with someone else behind the bar so that they could serve them instead.

So you’re saying that it’s about safety.
That’s right, for employees and for customers. When I was at the Anvil, I always worked the same shifts. This means that you get to know your regulars, and you can create a community. Whenever customers came in who appeared to be queer, I always introduced myself and did everything I could so that they would be able to relax and feel safe. It is a situation that a lot of bartenders know well: a woman enters the bar, alone. She isn’t there because she wants to meet someone. She just wants to enjoy her drink in peace. A bartender will automatically keep an eye on this person, because they know just how vulnerable she is. We do the same thing for BIPOC (Black, Indigenous, and people of colour), so that they know they are in a safe space. Creating visibility is an important aspect, and that is why we need to be having this conversation about how we can finally do a better job of achieving this in bars.

Is there a template you can follow?

There really isn’t any sort of checklist that you can follow to create a safe space. Discrimination against queer people is such a complex topic, and one that is traumatic for so many people, that you really have to find your own way of doing it. But I really do believe that bartenders play the same role for the public that lobbyists play for politicians. Every day, we have so many conversations with so many people that we can actually help to shape public opinion. The bar community has a great deal of power! I know that it used to be considered a rule that you should never talk about religion or politics at the bar. But take a look at the situation in the USA today: abortion rights have already been taken away – now they’re coming for same-sex marriage. If we don't start standing up for our rights, we will find ourselves in a very dark place. Bars have always been a place where people go to get away. And people need to f***ing drink right now (laughs).

I’d like to return for a moment to what you said earlier about ‘straight’ bars and ‘gay’ bars. What role does the interior play here? When I think about the establishments in Berlin that are clearly gay bars, their furnishings are almost always strikingly different.
‘Straight’ bar design is often very masculine, with lots of metal, wood, and stone. You rarely find soft textiles or curtains, bright colours, or gentle lighting. This creates a particular atmosphere, and from the very first moment, it makes a statement: this is a heteronormative place. It’s not for nothing that the interiors of gay bars are done differently – should you end up inside one by chance, it immediately tells you: you are in a gay bar.

What can the beverage industry do to help the bar world change?
Here’s a little anecdote: One time, this guy came into our bar and said: “Give me the gayest drink you’ve got.” I knew that he wanted something sweet, a tiki drink with a floral garnish. My response? “That would be a bourbon on the rocks.” The reason: “I’m gay, and that’s what I always drink, so to me that is the gayest drink!” (laughs). Brands often contact me to say: “Do you think you could create a cocktail for Pride Month for us?” That gets me every time. “Why don’t you ask me that in July?!” Every year, this appropriation takes place: companies replace their logos and shine a temporary spotlight on their queer employees, just so that the company can increase its profits. We need support all year round.

But aren’t there often homosexual people working in the big companies? After all, it’s a well-known fact that they frequently enjoy above-average qualifications? It must be possible to have a respectful conversation here about a positive form of collaboration.

That’s true, yet these people are often working under managers from a different generation. And more than anything, these companies market some products only to specific target groups. There are so-called ‘urban specialists’ who only go to ‘Black’ bars and offer them stereotypical ‘Black’ drinks like cognac, brandy, etc. Another example: one company created the position of ‘LGBTQ Specialist’ for their field staff. I thought it was a really cool idea, and even considered applying for one of these jobs. Yet a friend in Seattle who held one of these positions told me that he wasn’t given any access to premium scotch or high-quality gins, let alone limited editions. He wasn’t even allowed to talk about premium brands when he spoke to the operators of gay bars, but only about flavoured vodkas and spiced rum. The reason? Because they were pigeon-holing the gay community and decided that there were only specific brands that they might be interested in. This is no way to operate.

Generation Z is actively promoting change in so many different areas, from climate protection and gun laws to sexual identity. Does that make you hopeful about achieving your goals?
It most certainly does. For 18- to 24-year-olds in particular, gender non-conformity, polyamory, and bisexuality are increasingly common. Many people in this age group see themselves as queer. Young men are leaving toxic masculinity behind, and they want to talk about their feelings and their needs. Three or four years from now, the people in this generation will be our main customers. If they think that a cocktail bar is too heteronormative or masculine, they won’t go there for a date. Whether they like it or not, bars need to start appealing to a queer audience.

Alex, many thanks for your time.